How To Fix Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Error Code F

When the Whirlpool Cabrio Washer flashes the error code F, the appliance does not run at all. With this code on display, you can’t start the machine or change any modes, and it does not run any of the programs.

If your Whirlpool Cabrio Washer is not running, with the error code F flashing on display, this guide will help you resolve this issue. We will discuss what causes the error code F to display on your Whirlpool Cabrio and how you can fix it.

Cause of Whirlpool Cabrio Washer F Error Code

The error code F appears on the washer’s display when the main control board has failed. The board failure results in all other components and systems halting operations because of the control board’s inability to send signals to different washer components.

This failure is usually a result of voltage fluctuations or unexpected surges in power. For some models, the same error code might appear as F1.

For the Whirlpool Cabrio washer to run again, follow the steps to assess the error code and to replace the main control board if necessary.

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Step-by-Step Guide to Troubleshoot Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Error Code F

Quick Steps to Reset the Whirlpool Cabrio Error Code F

Prior to undertaking more complex fixes to get your Cabrio washer up and running, start by unplugging the washer and allow any electrical charge to dissipate for 2 to 5 minutes. If there isn’t a control board failure, the machine will self-assess and reset while unplugged. Next, plug in the washer and hold the START and PAUSE buttons at the same time for 1 minute. This simple exercise should clear the error code.

However, if the code still appears, you will have to replace the main electronic control board. Here’s how you can do that.

Replacing the Main Control Board on your Whirlpool Cabrio Washer

Disconnect the Washer

Unplug the washer from the electrical supply and the water supply system. Then, move the Cabrio washer away from the wall to access the back panel.

Detach the Bottom Panel

Remove the three screws at the bottom of the rear panel. The screws will either be 1/4-inch or Phillips head screws. The screws will be facing upward. Use a screwdriver, unfasten them and take them out.

Remove the Console

Once the screws are out, you can lift the console and move it forward. In this way, the console can lay on the main top of the washing machine. However, you will see the console is still connected to the primary control with wires. It would be prudent to disconnect the wires to minimize the possibility of damaging them.

You will see a wire coming in from the console through a connector. You can easily remove the connector to set the console wire loose from the main control board. Once that is done, the console is completely released, and you can set it aside while you move onto the next steps.

Replace the Control Board

With the console removed, take a 1/4-inch screwdriver and drive out the front screw in the control board. Once you take out the front screw, the board should be loose enough to move. At this point, take a picture of where all the wire harnesses are connected so that you can use that as a reference to connect all the wires correctly when you place the replacement control board.

To detach the control board completely, you will have to take all the wire harnesses off. Take off the two clips by pulling back on the locking tabs on the side next to the pressure hose. Once done, remove the pressure hose connected to the board as well. On the corner, remove the wire harness from the bracket.

Remove the clips along the length of the board and the final two wire clips on the opposite side. Next, you will find brackets at the bottom of the board with a blue wire threaded through them. You should remove them next.

Once you have taken out all the wire clips and the pressure hose, the board would be able to slide out freely from the mounting plate. Use a firm grip to pull it upwards and out.

Take your replacement control board and locate the two hooks on the side length. Slide these hooks into the notches in the mounting plate on your washer to clip the board in place from one side. Hold the new board up while you clear out wires from under it. Once all the wires are out of the way, press the board to fix it in place. Once the board is in place, take the 1/4-inch screw and drive it down using a screwdriver.

Now, you can reattach all the wire harnesses. Push in the connectors on the side, make sure they go all the way on till you hear a click indicating that they are correctly locked in place. Now, attach all the loose wire harnesses along the length and then on the opposite side.

If you are confused about the wire connections and where they go, you can refer to the picture you took while disconnecting. However, when you reattach the wires, you can usually tell where they hook to the board by their placement. Finally, reconnect the pressure hose and the blue wire by clicking it in place.

Reattach the Console

To reattach the console, pick it from the side and reconnect the wires leading from the control panel to the console by clicking them in. Make sure the locking tab clicks as the connector goes all the way in.

Push the console down and let it fall into place. Next, take the 1/4-inch screwdriver and put the three screws back in, securing the console in place.

Plug the Whirlpool Cabrio washing machine in and do a test run. The error code F should not show up on display. You can now use your washing machine normally.

Note: If you are not confident with appliance repair, you can contact a professional washing appliance technician to replace the new board for you—a new control board costs around $200.

Different F Error Codes And What They Mean

The guide mentioned above tackles the error code F; however, several other related F error codes can flash on your display. A number follows these “F” error codes, and they indicate a myriad of problems with your washer.

You need to understand what different F error codes mean so that you can perform appropriate troubleshooting steps.

Note: For different models, the numbers following the F error code might be different. In the following list, we will discuss all the codes that could indicate one issue with the washing machine and the steps to fix them.

LF (F30) Long Fill: This code flashes when the valve is turned on, but no change in the water level is detected for an extended time. Another reason is the control panel’s failure to detect a change in water level after the water has left the drum. Make sure that the water supply is connected and turned on. Also, ensure the plugging of the hose screens. If you verify water entering the tub, make sure the pressure hose is connected to the machine control.

Ld (F32) Long Drain: This error code flashes due to failure in water level change after turning on the drain pump. Make sure that the drain pump and the drain hose are not restricted. The drain hose should not be higher than 96 inches.

oL (F70) Overloaded: The oL or F70 error code displays on the washer due to a larger load size than the washer’s capacity. To troubleshoot, open the lid lock, take excessive clothes out and then begin the cycle again.

Sd (F71) Sud Detection: This code displays when the suds-lock condition is detected due to overuse of detergent. In other words, control detects too much drag on the basket. This renders the basket disengaged during the drain step, or another reason that the basket is unable to engage could be mechanical friction on the drive system.

The machine runs a mini-cycle to correct the suds problem. However, if it cannot do so, the cycle ends with F71 or Sd flashing on display. To troubleshoot, run an additional rinse cycle without detergent.

Lid (F81) Open/Close Door Lid: This code error flashes for several reasons. It could display if the START button is pressed without closing the door lid properly. It can also flash when the START button is pressed after two cycles and the lid is not opened. Another reason could be the lid switch not closing and opening correctly.

This could be due to a defective door lock assembly or an issue with the control board. You can run a diagnostic check on both these components using a multimeter to establish continuity and replace them if required.

dL (F80, 82, 84, 85) Door Lock Failure: When any of these F error codes flash on your washing machine’s display, it indicates a restriction that is not allowing the door to be closed completely. Residual lint or detergent could be preventing lock bolt extension. It could also be due to open lid switch detection as you lock the door or if the machine control cannot determine a locked door.

To troubleshoot, make sure the lock bolt is not restricted. Otherwise, test the lock assembly or lock circuit on the control board.

DU (F83) Door Unlock Failure: This code flashes when the control signals that the door is not unlocking. This F error code can also display if the control cannot determine whether the door lock assembly is locked or unlocked.

Make sure that the washer is not overloaded, which would not allow the door to unlock. If there is no pressure on the lid, test the door lock assembly and circuit for continuity.

F2 Keypad/ User Interface Failure: This error code flashes when there is the detection of a stuck key on the user interface. To troubleshoot, unplug the washer to reset control. If the code still flashes, you will have to replace the user interface board.

F40 Automatic Temperature Control Thermistor Open/ Short: The F40 error code flashes when the automatic temperature control (ATC) is detected to be short or open.

To troubleshoot:

1. Make sure that the water inlet valve is operating correctly.

2. Ensure that the home water supply is on and has adequate pressure.

3. Push the POWER button and start rinse on the warm-cold setting.

4. When the tub fills, ensure that the water is between 85 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

If yes, then the ATC is functioning correctly. If not, test for continuity and replace the faulty part.

F41 Motor Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) Thermistor Open/ Short: The error code F flashes followed by the number 41 when the rotor position sensor (RPS) is detected to be shorted or open. Make sure that basket spins without restriction by hand. If yes, then unplug and plug back the P5 and P10 mainboard connectors. If the code still displays, test for continuity and replace if needed.

F42 Heater Thermistor Open/Short: This code flashes upon failure to detect whether the heater is on or off. Access the heater assembly and verify none of the wires are burned. Make sure that the heater connector at P14 is plugged all the way in. Otherwise, verify continuity and replace if needed.

F50 Stalled Motor: This code flashes when the rotor position sensor (RPS) can’t detect rotation from the motor. If, upon checking, the basket moves easily, verify the bottom shipping pack has been removed. Also, make sure the P5 and P10 connectors are correctly connected, and the wires are all in working condition. If you cannot determine the cause of friction, replace the part if it can’t establish continuity.

F51 Motor RPS Failure: This code indicates the failure of the motor rotor position sensor. The usual fix is to replace the failed part. First, however, it would be best to run tests to rule out problems with the wire harness or the mainboard.

F52 Motor Stop Failure: This code flashes when the motor RPS can sense movement even after the STOP command has been given. Use the same diagnostic tests as you did for error F50 and replace the part if necessary.

F53 Motor Control Over-Temp: The F53 code displays upon the detection of an overheating motor module. Spin the tub to verify free movement and make sure no clothing is stuck. Otherwise, establish continuity for the motor circuit and replace it if needed.

F54 Motor Control Overcurrent: This code indicates a high current coming from the motor module. Apply the same troubleshooting steps as F50.

F72 Basket Re-Engagement Failure: This code flashes when the control can’t detect basket re-engagement after it disengages. Potential fixes include pumping out water if the basket floats or determining the reason for friction on the drive system and removing it.

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